On a wet but not cold night, fashionistas, localistas, media and celebs gathered for the second but not last installment of fashion week. It was surprising how dressed down a lot of people were, I guess because a lot of them were at the seminar all day and didn’t have time to go home between the last talk and the first show. The first day had an almost anti-glam, anti-fashion fashionable feel to it, an unusual but fun feature in a Jozi gathering. 

DESIGNERS

ABIGAIL BETZ

- MAKE-UP MUSE: FRESH METAL

Groom or no groom, this girl is designing my wedding gown, whose practical yet goddess-ness would be perfect for a cocktail party, red carpet event or wedding. Think layered chiffon strapless dresses and long trailed gowns with soft drapes at the back. But before we get to the nuptials, let’s start with her everyday collection, which is anything but ‘everyday’. Well constructed and flawless are the words that came to mind while watching the show. Betz’ dreamy yet bold velvet half bubble coats, with bow belts, scarf neck and granny brooches in warm hues like brown, cerese, red, cream and black worn over soft pleated, cocoon shaped dresses and cream-golddust coctktail frocks with three cascading pleated and a V-shaped back epitomized Dita Von Teese’s statement that femininity is the new feminism. To view Abigail Betz collection, please visit the designers section on FashionAfrica.com or click HERE.

COLLEEN EITZEN

- MAKE-UP MUSE: SCULPT

At the seminar earlier in the day, her husband, Niel Roake, owner of The Space (a nationwide franchise where young South African designers can showcase their ranges), said that one of the flaws that young designers have is that they don’t create wearable clothes. The ultimate range is defined by, he said, its’ ability to be taken straight off the catwalk and into the stores. For this, Colleen Eitzen gets a 10 out 10. Her range played on bias cut pleats and drapes juxtaposed with studious looking felt trapeze coats and high-waist skirts (with drapes) or tregging inspired pedal pushers. The range was minimalist, stylish and most importantly wearable almost anywhere. The Long Black Dress once again replaces the LBD (little black dress) as the IT party dress this winter and Eitzen perfectly interpreted this in cap sleeved chiffon frocks soft drapes and a silk pleat-drape pocketed gown, a definite show-stopper. To view Colleen Eitzen’s collection, please visit the designers section on FashionAfrica.com of click HERE

STORY 

- MAKE-UP MUSE: SLATED

A story is defined as a narrative account of something worth telling or thought of to have importance or the potential to make an impact on its audience. Whenever a new story is told, a tale which its audience has no frame or reference for, the instinct is to reject it but as the story continues, its nuances start to be more palatable and even enjoyable. Such was the Story range, a fusion of high-street and biker chic looks, mostly drawing on the black on black trend. Double-breasted coats with silver buttons worn with rubber treggings stuffed into ankle boots with silver lining or two-toned shoes showed a care-free and bold attitude. During the show, I received a text from a fellow fashionista: ‘Black Coffee (the leaders of avant-garde in SA) must be peeing (the rude version) in their pants right now.’ I couldn’t agree with her more. To view more of Story’s collection, please vist the designers section on FashionAfrica.com or click HERE.

TERRENCE BRAY

- MAKE UP MUSE: ACRYLIC

Although I didn’t particularly like Bray’s collection, it posed an important question. Where are designers sourcing their inspiration from because, by the repetitiveness of some the style (the scarf collar; draped-pleated pockets etc), it looks some of them are sourcing in the same pool (or is that a TV channel?) Bray’s collection was average, with a lack of signature that made the range look like anyone could’ve designed it. Still, he interpreted catwalk trends aptly through skinny silhouettes on men’s pants; a splash of cerese and florid shirts in red and black worn with biker chic leather pants.

AMANDA LAIRD CHERRY

- MAKE UP MUSE: ALABASTER

First of all, I didn’t know that this veteran of fashion has a men’s range! Her kaftan long black shirts and apron accessories with knit doilies elicited the domestication of men as more women go out to get the bacon (also in line with trend forecasts that men, at least in fashion are set to become more feminine). I loved her knit doilie wraps, some worn as shawls and trail accessories on the garments as well as the flower shaped rings which bloomed from the fingers of the models. According to my style teacher and spokesperson of Sanlam SA Fashion Week, the designer draws influences from voodoo culture and black, shown in the slanted shaped detailing of her pockets and the use of the colour black. Other than that I wasn’t surprised or wowed. It seems this Ms Cherry played things safe but at least she seems to have gotten over shweshwe!(we hope). To view more from Amanda Laird Cherry’s collection, please visit the designers section on FashionAfrica.com or click HERE.

The Make up Muse were inspired by an event that took place earlier, The Mac trends & Spring/Summer presentation. Read below:

MAC TRENDS SPRING/SUMMER PRESENTATION

M.A.C Senior Artist (Spain), Baltasar Gonzalez, and voted Best Make-Up Artist in the world by Spanish Vogue, presented the five key looks in make-up, as seen on international catwalks from Paris to Milan, with designers like Ann Demeulemeester, Zac Posen, Rosa Cha and the like pairing their collections with make up to match; thus creating an holistic link between trends leading in beauty and what we see translated on the catwalk.

SLATED

- Catwalk Muse: Zac Posen

The eyes are the window to the soul and the slated trend celebrates this by creating an enigmatic, smokey silhouette around the eyes by using grey(the newest comeback colour), dirty charcoal gel liners (with replace last season’s liquid liners). Urban, nonchalant and too cool for school is slated’s spin.

SCULPT

- Catwalk Muse: Ann Demeulemeester

Using the face as a blank (or bland) canvas, the sculpt look is about creating a natural ‘photo shaped face’ by using barely there make up, studiously sculpted and textured accents like wet gloss, satin matte or jagged edge eyebrows as bold statements against a bland but dewy face.

ALABASTER

- Catwalk Muse: GSTAR

Using luminous undertones like translucent foundation, white mascara and highlighted contours to create an albino-like look, alabaster is about pureness, minimalism and modernity, contrasted by dark and bold or soft lips. It’s an almost innocent but snowy-gaunt look.

FRESH METAL

- Catwalk Muse: Rosa Cha

Summer is all about warmth and the outdoors. This ‘hippie fresh’ but glamorous aesthetic uses warm metals like gold, bronze, platinum shell pinks and flesh tones for an ageless, day-to-night, luxurious looks.

ACRYLIC

- Catwalk Muse: Antonio Berardi

Framed by asymmetrical and uber long fringes, the acrylic looks about giving the minimalist, matte face canvas a shock statement with punky, matte, bright lips in pure orange, pink and even red. From the dark days of punk rock that bulldozed its way on the catwalk last season (all seasons?) comes a more optimistic and bright version of this iconic culture. Too much is never enough when exploring colour, this season!

View the MAC presentation in the EVENTS section, and discuss about it in the BEAUTY FORUM.

- Lelethu L.