New designer, Abbiee Oyewole recently launched her fashion line, Qétura, with a show themed symbiosis. The show, co-sponsored by FashionAfrica, featured an art exhibit of paintings by HauTe Magazine’s Osione Itegboje and a runway show of Qétura’s premier collection.

FashionAfrica had a sit-down with Bimbo before the show to figure out her plans for women’s fashion.

Abbiee’s full name is Abimbola Oyewole. Her Nigerian friends call her Bimbo, but her Non-Nigerians call her Abbiee, go figure! She came to the U.S when she was 16, completed her undergrad degree in 06 and currently works as an auditor at one of the biggest accounting firms in the world (hint hint). When she’s not at her day job, she’s at school working on her Master’s degree. Whatever free time she has is spent creating designs for her line.

Favorite quote: I don’t design clothes, I design dreams… Ralph Lauren

FashionAfrica.com: Hello Abbiee, How are you doing lovely?

Abbiee Oyewole: I’m fine. Just nervous about the official launch of my line in the next few days.

FA: So, what’s with people in finance that end up finding their way into arts, fashion designing most especially, is the financial world that daunting?

AO: (she laughs) I wouldn’t say it’s daunting. I think it has to do with how we were raised in Nigeria. Growing up, you had to pick a professional career; the artsy stuff is not considered a full time career. So a lot of us satisfy our parents first, and then pursue our dreams later.

FA: I see, it’s been some kind of struggle?

AO: Well, It’s been a little hectic, considering I have a lot of things going on at the same time, but I think I’m able to find some kind of balance.

FA: Qétura. That’s quite a peculiar name, how did it come about?

AO: As much as I would like to give you an exciting story about how the name came about, I have to tell you that it’s my Christian name given to me by my grandmother.

FA: Any background in Fashion, how did you know or what made you feel you could choose this career path?

AO: The truth is I don’t have any formal training in Fashion; however I live, breathe and eat fashion. I know people might think what makes you think you can be a fashion designer without any type of formal training? To those people, I say “fashion is a state of mind!” Growing up with a stylish mom, I developed an eye for the finer things. I have always been interested in fashion, but never had the guts to try it until now.

FA: How did you come about Symbiosis as a theme for your premier show?

AO: The focus of my line is to empower young women with designs that blend Western style with traditionally African culture and style. Symbiosis is meant to represent that perfect match between the two different cultures.

Photos by timcoreyphotography

FA: Where do you source inspiration?

AO: A lot of my inspiration comes from unknown designers like Nanette Lepore, Although not so famous, they inspire me to challenge our (African) regular traditional outfits. The patterns of some of our (African) fabrics are so amazing, that they also inspire me to create beautiful designs that display well.

FA: What would a muse be for you? Do you have one?. If not, if you had to choose who will be your muse?

AO: My muse….I don’t think I have one yet, but if I had to choose, It would be Tamara Solomon, an upcoming model in the Dallas fashion scene (check her out!)

FA: What’s so unique about Qétura?

AO: Qétura is unique for many reasons. The simplicity of ready-to-wear. The boldness of the design palette. And, most importantly, the availability for all women are few of reasons why Qétura is unique.FA: Your signature look(s) will be?…

AO: Yellow Jacket dress. It’s simple, yet edgy, and showcases the confidence and playfulness I want to bring out in women.

FA: After your launch, what’s the next task for Qétura? How do you plan to get it in peoples closets?..

AO: The next plan is to get Qétura’s website up so fashonistas can place orders for pieces they can’t live without. As far as having it readily available at stores to buy, we are working on that and if there are any buyers out there, please contact us.

FA: Do you have a 5YR plan as well…?

AO: 5yr plan?! Sounds like a job interview…. In 5 years, I would like to see Qétura has not only a well recognized line within the African Designers but also globally recognized line.

Great! We can’t wait to hear some more news from you. Best wishes in this endeavor and have a lovely day!

- Wadami.

You are out of hibernation, the beautiful weather that is spring is here.

Your top makeup brands, and their HauTe Product.

 -  Iman; Cream to powder foundation - smooth, tones, gives a flawless matte finish.

 - Lise; Eye Shadow - Great for vibrant colours and shades.

 - Toni Payne; Lip Glosses - best finishing touch for that perfect glossy pout.

 - Limited-edition Yves Saint Laurent Palette Esprit Couture No. 1 and No. 2 compacts, inspired by a vintage Haute Couture creation coveted silk-bowed evening gown from the designer’s Fall 1983 collection. Respecting Yves Saint Laurent’s philosophy, the shades have been designed to complement every skin tone and eye color it’s fabulous on eyes or cheeks. Dress that inspired compacts -  

Introducing: Ada Cosmetics.

Ada (ah-dah) is traditionally the name given by the Nigerian Ibo to firstborn females. Now there is Ada Cosmetics, the first mineral makeup uniquely dedicated to women of color. 

Our favorite product from Ada is the Translucent Finishing Veil -

 

Not only are you assured a smooth, matte, “finished” touch to your look, but this silky blend of the lightest minerals with just arrowroot powder is a sure way and the safest approach to maintaining a healthy skin.

You can now say goodbye to concerns about germs growing in your makeup, expiration date issues, or damaging skin irritation. Viva la Ada Cosmetics!

- Wadami.

Keeping you stylish and up to date is what we do on FashionAfrica.com, so to follow last weeks feature of on 2008’s spring latest trends, we have compiled a finished look.

Accessorizing is key, and we have selected some of this springs accessory trends and what designers you can get the look from. . .

BIG! BIG!! BIG!!! was the theme for Spring so to block the bling, we are recommending a good pair of Sunglasses.

FYI: Kanye West wasn’t the first to put “Shutter shades” on the map. Check out AngloGold Ashanti’s version debuted at Capetown Fashion Week (summer of 07):

. . .but for a more practical wear, these Ella Brown’s will do:  

The Trendsetter himself, Alber Elbaz dazzled us with knocker Necklaces & Earrings:

 

Belts to cinch the waist of those Flowy Gowns:

 

Because you are worth it (too):

Spoil yourself with Bags, Rings, and Charm sets.

  - Vanessa Croco Bag by Onna Ehrlich seen on the arms of Celebrities like Lindsey Lohan.

 - Hand made rings by Circa64. Chic TV host of Entertainment Weekly, in Lagos Nigeria - Keke Adenuga has been seen donning the different jewels from this designer.

Walk in style:

Blocked heels are IN!

. . .and for a practical look:  

But wait, before you go.

History 101: Know your designers - AngloGold Ashanti.

AngloGold Ashanti is the worlds largest global gold mining company with mines on four continents. It was formed in 2004 by the merger of AngloGold and the Ashanti Goldfields Corporation.

AngloGold Ashanti Limited is now a global gold producer with 21 operations on four continents. The company is listed on the New York, Johannesburg, Ghanaian, London and Australian stock exchanges, as well as the Paris and Brussels bourses.

During Capetown Fashion Week in the summer of 2007, AngloGold had a fashion show showcasing the different jewelery styles made from their Gold, and it was nothing short of exquisite. . .

- Wadami.

We can finally say spring is here - atleast it felt like it until it snowed in London YESTERDAY…does mother earth have it in for us or what?! Anyway, we’ve decided that we will not let the fickle nature of “Nature” (Get it? haha) get the best of us! Perhaps if it sees we are ready for spring, she will come around.

Since the spring collections graced the catwalks in ‘07, we thought we’d refresh your memory with some of it’s top trends…

What’s Spring without the perfect Jacket? Afterall, it’s spring not summer. This season the Jackets were very loose, we are talking “oversize boyfriend blazer” look. See some of the designers who rocked this trend:

Loose Fits:

Something very unconventional about the spring/summer ‘08 collections was the modesty feel it took. Suprisingly, we were not bombarded with bright colours or revealing looks. Instead, looks that could work from day - night.

Our Favorite trend this Spring is…

Flowy Gowns:

Oh Alber, the movements on the runway at the Lanvin show were breath-taking.

Cocktails? Charity events? A night out on the town? These trends should keep you in style:

High Waisted Pants:

Knee Length Dresses:

Pencil Skirts:

…There you have it! This springs staples are quite basic and easy for the average fashionista to wear, you have not excuse but to keep it HauTe this spring.

- Bisous, Wadami.

British-born Ghanaian designer Samata Angel has showcased her label ‘Samata’s Muse’ at prestigious international events such as the Festival of Youth Arts in association with The Mayor of London, The Clothes Show Live and The Face of Asia, and today she launches the beginning of FashionAfrica.com’s ‘Who’s HauTe’ series - A profile of up & coming talents that are definitely worth looking out for.

Samata Angel hails from Cambridge; the talented designer was nominated as ‘Exceptionally Creative’ at the British Female Inventor and Innovators Awards 2007, her stunning designs have seen requests from the likes of Jennifer Lopez and Dawn Richards (Danity Kane), along with an offer to join the design team for JLO’s ‘Sweetface’.

Samata has always had a knack for fashion and has worked as Fashion Editor of The Talent Magazine writes regular blogs for leading UK fashion website Fashion Capital and is a talented musician. She recently launched her Spring/Summer 2008 collection at the Nolcha Fashion Week (becoming the first black British female to show).

Samata Angel was nominated for the Aristoc Woman of the Year 2007, and will launch three collections and a guide book for young designers. She was also made Ambassador for the Girls! Make your Mark Campaign.

We are honored to have a chat with this promising talent, who just glows of positive radiance:

FA: Hello Samata, how are you today? The trip from Spain & Italy, how did it go, refreshing we hope?

SA: It was great to get away and spend time with my friends. I went to Spain for a holiday and Italy for business (even when I am meant to be taking a time out I just can’t!)

FA: When and how did Samata’s Muse come about?

SA: I launched in 2005 after having spent time customisng and creating pieces for women. I felt like I wanted to make it more formal and official. Plus I had been working as Head of Marketing for a clothing label and Head of PR for a boutique so I did already have a good understanding of the industry for a number of angles…

FA: How and/or where else do you pull inspiration from for the label?

SA: I think it has a great deal to do with putting myself into new and exciting environments and trying to stay positive and happy. You can not really create if your mind is not clear - having said that sometimes you create your best work when your life is in a storm….my main source of inspiration is originality and change.

FA: How many collections have you launched till date? Your label seems to be broken down into different sections, do you mind explaining what “Unique” “Limited Edition” and “Humble Ambition” are about or are they just names for previous collections?..

SA: Two collections so far. Every one of my collections is announced by the term ‘The Muses’ which simply announces a collection of pieces that have been inspired.

• The Muses - Unique clothing range presents unique design - jackets, skirts and dresses with cut-outs, intricate beading, angled cuts and flattering layers. Limited Edition are one off pieces created to mark special occasions such as our launch, the label’s birthday (5th April), Christmas and other important occasions.

The Humble Ambition range is a collection of t-shirts coming soon.

FA: We noticed ‘The Knot” in some of your collections, is that a Samata Muse trade mark?

SA: Yes definitely, so is the ruffled vertical hemline!

FA: How did it feel to be the first black British female to show at Nolcha Fashion Week?

SA: It felt good - I want to make history for as long as I can be and be the first at many things so this was great but really it was more important that other young black designers contacted me to say they also now thought it was something they could do. It is all about opening the doors for others and inspiring other people.

FA: Where is the label heading to now, and what do we expect to see and hear from Samata Muse in say, 2 - 5 years?!

SA: I would say the launch of more ranges is imminent but also I will be launching a guide book series for emerging or struggling designers to offer them advice in areas from marketing, to manufacturing to how to present themselves for sponsorship.

FA: As a young designer, who is also working on a guide for young designers, do you feel you have garnered enough experience to teach up coming designers. Off the bat, what would be your first advice to designers that are looking up to you now?

SA: I definitely have. Firstly I have my degree in Economics, Finance and Management which gives me a really good understanding of business which a lot of creative people do not have - they have all this amazing talent but not necessarily a great deal of business acumen - even down to how to present to a potential investor. I have also had the chance to work in a number of fields within the industry and not just as a designer so in areas such as PR and Marketing I have a great deal of advice and really I think it is important to learn from people (from everyone to be honest), especially those who have done what you want to do. I have had amazing press coverage for someone who started so recently - I was just interviewed by BET! So I do think I have a valid point of view worth listening to.

FA: Speaking about being a role model, congratulations on being an Ambassador for Girls! Make your mark campaign, how did you get into that, and what other charity organizations do you work with?

SA: Thank you - I was actually recommended by the Prime Minister Gordon Brown - Number 10 suggested we get in touch with the organisation, we did and it went from there. Right now they are the only organisation I work with and I want to keep being selective.

FA: It was so sweet chatting with you Samata; we wish you all the best life has got to offer in your endeavors, any last words for the readers?

SA: Live your life with your passion in it. Even if you can not do what you love full time, make a little time for it otherwsie you will lose touch with your God-given ability which not everyone is lucky enough to have!

Check out Samata’s collection; Samata’s Muse in the designers section of FashionAfrica.com

- Wadami.

Finally, we can take a breather from all the Fashion Weeks, and sit back to figure out what the top trends/look for the Fall will be. From the Crystal knocker earrings, bows at Lanvin in Paris to the bows present on the other side of the continent at Thula Sindi in Africa.

♪ HEAT HIT IT ♪

♪ Baby it’s cold outside:

It is indeed fall, except of course you are trying to freeze to death, you will be needing that coat stylish coat. As expected they were present in most of the collections, like:

Yves Saint Laurent did have you covered, literally. You could spot this trends presence at YSL in different cut patterns.

♪ Tie me up:

Zippers, Buttons could be such a drag sometimes - especially when you are in a rush, you either break the zipper or you are missing a button hole! There’s really nothing like just knotting your way out the door. Designers who understand sometimes we just need to get on the go are:

Thula Sindi sure knows how to get the ladies around those knots.

♪ Life in Plastic is fantastic:

Come on barbie, let’s go party. I couldn’t resist not completing the song, and it didn’t look like the designers could hold back as well. These designers played with uncoventional materials:

…and Clive Rundle just couldn’t help himself.

♪ I got my freakum dress on:

À la times of Audrey Hepburn - Little Black Dresses have been known to be the must-have staple in every womans closet - perfect for those unexpected nights out. But wait, there seems to be change of thought or could it be that black just remains the must have colour? Introducing the LONG Black dress aka LBD:

David Tlale took it home with his dazzling LBD.

♪ G.L.A.M.O.R.O.U.S:

Looking to get noticed 10 miles before you even arrive your said destination? Well, there’s enough colour to make you feel like you are still in Spring/Summer this Fall:

Gavin Rajah sees the rainbow…

With these selections you should have no problem picking your look for the fall.

We also couldn’t just leave you not ready for your close up.

♪ Lights, Camera, Action:

“I can’t imagine anything worse than putting on a perfect evening gown and ruining it by throwing on a cheap pashmina. If you’re going to go through the effort of finding the perfect dress, the perfect shoe, and perfect jewels, the only thing to complete the look is a fur stole.” - Nan Kempner.

Some of these perfect looks came to life with:

Alber Elbaz for Lanvin compliments the aforementioned quote in his Fall ‘08 collection.

Bisous, Wadami.

To get information on how to get the look or styles featured in this blog, please visit HERE, and inquire.

You read right! It’s the last day, and it just began yesterday! It’s only in SA 2 days can be called a week, because truly we get a weeks shows done. As always we have complete coverage + reviews of the designers that closed Sanlam South Africa Fashion Week, March 2008:

THANDO ZAMXAKA

For a lot of young designers, production costs can be increased monumentally when you have to buy reams and reams of fabric to make a range. Luckily, textile companies such as Da Gama and Vlisco step in and provide some young designers with free fabric, thereby bringing down the cost of producing a collection (and also giving free publicity to said textile companies). However, because these textile companies usually specialize in ethnic fabric, young designers’ collections can become stuck in the shweshwe rut. Thando Zamxaka successfully managed to avoid this by using international designs and trends (biker chic, pleats, layers and dramatic collars) made in ethnic fabric. The one buttoned waist jacket in red, a blue kimono influenced jacket with a red staggered belt and empire line goddess gown in ethnic textiles showed a designer who is in touch with what the African identity is all about - a synthesis of our roots, high street style, couture and popular culture. I look forward to Zamxaka’s growth in honing this aesthetic. To view Thando Zamxaka’s collection, please visit the designers section on FashionAfrica.com or click HERE.

MISS SCARLETT

Demure, feminine and sensual are the words that best describe the Miss Scarlett range, which juxtaposed form hugging silhouettes like cocoon coats with soft pleats and ribbon belt with free flowing pants. I loved her interpretation of the waistcoat with two criss-crossing buttons vas well as the dramatic swan brooches she used on all her garments. To view Miss Scarlett’s collection, please visit the designers section of FashionAfrica.com or click HERE.

MISTISISM by Tony Mesre

Taking inspiration from 50’s shifts, modernized with bubble bottoms and embellishments, Mistisism featured a black and grey palette with a burst of yellow. Think stark yellow poloneck dresses with pockets. The range was not new or amazing innovation but the garments looked well made. To view Mistisism by Tony Mesre’s collection visit the designers section on FashionAfrica.com or click HERE.

HERMANNA RUSH

What a breath of fresh air to see another colour besides red, yellow and cerese. Blue burst onto the catwalk in Rush’s show - blue on blue in satin, felt and hose; paired with brown dungaree mini dresses or worn with skinny pants tucked into leather boots.  Rush’s collection was bold yet feminine; romantic yet statement-making. To view Hermanna Rush’s collection please visit the designers section on FashionAfrica.com or click HERE.

LUNAR

A lot of people were expecting to be bored (or at least not surprised) by this collection. Lunar, known for its signature use of soft hues and luxurious textures showed feminine drapes, scarf-long cowl necks and blacks paired with browns, once again indulging romanticism in fashion. The range’s showstopper was definitely the flowing silk goddess gown as well as the chiffon layered A-line strapless gown.  Predictable but beautiful at the same time. To view Lunar’s collection please visit the designers section on FashionAfrica.com or click HERE.

CLIVE RUNDLE

This show almost caused the end of a very long and dear friendship. My friend, an observant and out of the box fashionista argued that Rundle’s The Riot (the name of the collection) was the best thing she had seen all week. From a creative point of view, I agreed with her. Throughout fashion week, I had a problem with young designers and their source of inspiration, which seemed to come from the same pool. For totally going against the grain, while still fusing catwalk textures (PVC, chiffon and colour), Clive Rundle gets a 10 out of 10 from me. However, in line what was said at the seminar and how young the South African fashion industry is, I felt that perhaps Rundle’s collection was out of context. Globally, he would’ve been able to show the collection and gain a creative response, with people still choosing to buy his clothing as they can discern between his couture range and his RTW (ready to wear) collection in-store. However, in South Africa, consumers still judge a designer (and whether they would buy his clothing) by what they see on the runway. So the question is: does Clive Rundle not need any more customers or has he simply gotten to that stage where he can afford to indulge his creativity, even if it means he won’t make any more business? Who exactly is his audience? Himself or his (would-be) customers?. To view more from Clive Rundle’s collection, please visit the designers section of FashionAfrica.com or click HERE.

- Lelethu L.

On a wet but not cold night, fashionistas, localistas, media and celebs gathered for the second but not last installment of fashion week. It was surprising how dressed down a lot of people were, I guess because a lot of them were at the seminar all day and didn’t have time to go home between the last talk and the first show. The first day had an almost anti-glam, anti-fashion fashionable feel to it, an unusual but fun feature in a Jozi gathering. 

DESIGNERS

ABIGAIL BETZ

- MAKE-UP MUSE: FRESH METAL

Groom or no groom, this girl is designing my wedding gown, whose practical yet goddess-ness would be perfect for a cocktail party, red carpet event or wedding. Think layered chiffon strapless dresses and long trailed gowns with soft drapes at the back. But before we get to the nuptials, let’s start with her everyday collection, which is anything but ‘everyday’. Well constructed and flawless are the words that came to mind while watching the show. Betz’ dreamy yet bold velvet half bubble coats, with bow belts, scarf neck and granny brooches in warm hues like brown, cerese, red, cream and black worn over soft pleated, cocoon shaped dresses and cream-golddust coctktail frocks with three cascading pleated and a V-shaped back epitomized Dita Von Teese’s statement that femininity is the new feminism. To view Abigail Betz collection, please visit the designers section on FashionAfrica.com or click HERE.

COLLEEN EITZEN

- MAKE-UP MUSE: SCULPT

At the seminar earlier in the day, her husband, Niel Roake, owner of The Space (a nationwide franchise where young South African designers can showcase their ranges), said that one of the flaws that young designers have is that they don’t create wearable clothes. The ultimate range is defined by, he said, its’ ability to be taken straight off the catwalk and into the stores. For this, Colleen Eitzen gets a 10 out 10. Her range played on bias cut pleats and drapes juxtaposed with studious looking felt trapeze coats and high-waist skirts (with drapes) or tregging inspired pedal pushers. The range was minimalist, stylish and most importantly wearable almost anywhere. The Long Black Dress once again replaces the LBD (little black dress) as the IT party dress this winter and Eitzen perfectly interpreted this in cap sleeved chiffon frocks soft drapes and a silk pleat-drape pocketed gown, a definite show-stopper. To view Colleen Eitzen’s collection, please visit the designers section on FashionAfrica.com of click HERE

STORY 

- MAKE-UP MUSE: SLATED

A story is defined as a narrative account of something worth telling or thought of to have importance or the potential to make an impact on its audience. Whenever a new story is told, a tale which its audience has no frame or reference for, the instinct is to reject it but as the story continues, its nuances start to be more palatable and even enjoyable. Such was the Story range, a fusion of high-street and biker chic looks, mostly drawing on the black on black trend. Double-breasted coats with silver buttons worn with rubber treggings stuffed into ankle boots with silver lining or two-toned shoes showed a care-free and bold attitude. During the show, I received a text from a fellow fashionista: ‘Black Coffee (the leaders of avant-garde in SA) must be peeing (the rude version) in their pants right now.’ I couldn’t agree with her more. To view more of Story’s collection, please vist the designers section on FashionAfrica.com or click HERE.

TERRENCE BRAY

- MAKE UP MUSE: ACRYLIC

Although I didn’t particularly like Bray’s collection, it posed an important question. Where are designers sourcing their inspiration from because, by the repetitiveness of some the style (the scarf collar; draped-pleated pockets etc), it looks some of them are sourcing in the same pool (or is that a TV channel?) Bray’s collection was average, with a lack of signature that made the range look like anyone could’ve designed it. Still, he interpreted catwalk trends aptly through skinny silhouettes on men’s pants; a splash of cerese and florid shirts in red and black worn with biker chic leather pants.

AMANDA LAIRD CHERRY

- MAKE UP MUSE: ALABASTER

First of all, I didn’t know that this veteran of fashion has a men’s range! Her kaftan long black shirts and apron accessories with knit doilies elicited the domestication of men as more women go out to get the bacon (also in line with trend forecasts that men, at least in fashion are set to become more feminine). I loved her knit doilie wraps, some worn as shawls and trail accessories on the garments as well as the flower shaped rings which bloomed from the fingers of the models. According to my style teacher and spokesperson of Sanlam SA Fashion Week, the designer draws influences from voodoo culture and black, shown in the slanted shaped detailing of her pockets and the use of the colour black. Other than that I wasn’t surprised or wowed. It seems this Ms Cherry played things safe but at least she seems to have gotten over shweshwe!(we hope). To view more from Amanda Laird Cherry’s collection, please visit the designers section on FashionAfrica.com or click HERE.

The Make up Muse were inspired by an event that took place earlier, The Mac trends & Spring/Summer presentation. Read below:

MAC TRENDS SPRING/SUMMER PRESENTATION

M.A.C Senior Artist (Spain), Baltasar Gonzalez, and voted Best Make-Up Artist in the world by Spanish Vogue, presented the five key looks in make-up, as seen on international catwalks from Paris to Milan, with designers like Ann Demeulemeester, Zac Posen, Rosa Cha and the like pairing their collections with make up to match; thus creating an holistic link between trends leading in beauty and what we see translated on the catwalk.

SLATED

- Catwalk Muse: Zac Posen

The eyes are the window to the soul and the slated trend celebrates this by creating an enigmatic, smokey silhouette around the eyes by using grey(the newest comeback colour), dirty charcoal gel liners (with replace last season’s liquid liners). Urban, nonchalant and too cool for school is slated’s spin.

SCULPT

- Catwalk Muse: Ann Demeulemeester

Using the face as a blank (or bland) canvas, the sculpt look is about creating a natural ‘photo shaped face’ by using barely there make up, studiously sculpted and textured accents like wet gloss, satin matte or jagged edge eyebrows as bold statements against a bland but dewy face.

ALABASTER

- Catwalk Muse: GSTAR

Using luminous undertones like translucent foundation, white mascara and highlighted contours to create an albino-like look, alabaster is about pureness, minimalism and modernity, contrasted by dark and bold or soft lips. It’s an almost innocent but snowy-gaunt look.

FRESH METAL

- Catwalk Muse: Rosa Cha

Summer is all about warmth and the outdoors. This ‘hippie fresh’ but glamorous aesthetic uses warm metals like gold, bronze, platinum shell pinks and flesh tones for an ageless, day-to-night, luxurious looks.

ACRYLIC

- Catwalk Muse: Antonio Berardi

Framed by asymmetrical and uber long fringes, the acrylic looks about giving the minimalist, matte face canvas a shock statement with punky, matte, bright lips in pure orange, pink and even red. From the dark days of punk rock that bulldozed its way on the catwalk last season (all seasons?) comes a more optimistic and bright version of this iconic culture. Too much is never enough when exploring colour, this season!

View the MAC presentation in the EVENTS section, and discuss about it in the BEAUTY FORUM.

- Lelethu L.

At the last installment of Audi Joburg Fashion Week, fashionistas, media and celebrities put on their Saturday best to bid a fashionable farewell to a week of fabulousness, style, innovation, partying and schmoozing. The debate about David Tlale’s collection the night before was still hot on everyone’s lips, with a clear division amongst the fashion-forward, who loved the collection and the rest who ‘just didn’t get it.’ A good point was made that, as men become more in touch with their feminine side and with fashion becoming more fantasy (another much explored trend this year), so their clothing starts to reflect this, something which Tlale’s collection resonated with.

THULA SINDI

‘You’re gonna love what you’ll see tomorrow,’ he promised me as I was leaving Sandton Convention Centre the night before. Not only did I love the avante-garde and globalised look of his collection; his finishing on each garment, attention to detail and his innate understanding of a woman’s body and how clothes should look on it had many people comparing him to the likes of Valentino. His clothing has timeless femininity and make a statement without being loud about it. What I admire the most about Thula is that he hasn’t pigeon-holed himself into a certain kind of designer - each range that he creates shows his growth as a person and as a talent; he not only creates fashion, he lives, breathes and talks it. ‘If you have an hour to spare, ask me about fashion,’ he says.

When he was chosen as one of the designers to show at Paris Fashion Week last year, many people argued he wasn’t ready. Did he understand the concept of creating a collection on a global platform? Would he have enough resources and support? Whether he was ready or not, is now irrelevant. The fact is, his international appearance opened up his exposure and honed in him a global interpretation of fashion and life, an aesthetic, which was clearly evident in the pieces he chose; the textures he fused and colours he used. Thula Sindi is inspired, with a talent bigger than his ego ( a missing chip in many designers) and his Autumn/Winter collection was easily the highlight of the week. In South Africa, he dresses celebrities like Penny Lebyane (Metro fm DJ), Uyanda Mbuli (socialite and TV presenter) and Precious Moloi-Motsepe, who were all wearing his designs this week. Thought-leaders in the industry, expect, that Thula will be showing on international catwalks, among big wigs like, er Valentino, Zac Posen, D&G et al. When he does, we’ll be sitting in the front row, cheering him on. See his collection in the designers section of FashionAfrica.com or Click HERE

STONED CHERRIE

‘Love is the only thing that’s true. It’s all we really have,’ Nkhensani Manganyi, founder and creative director of Stoned Cherrie recently said in an interview with Glamour Magazine (SA). This sentiment is what inspired her Autumn/Winter range, the Love Movement. As the show began, ushers swirled incense sticks all over the room, with the sound of the train moving evoking a sense of going on an adventurous journey. For the first time ever, I and I’m sure many in the audience experienced Stoned Cherrie as we never have before. The label has (finally) moved beyond the Sophiatown aesthetic, showcasing a re-birth and (re)turn to innovation. The range, like other collections before it drew inspiration from colour, using red silks fused with leathers and accessorized with green, yellow, brown stockings with creative ‘doodle’ leading up the calf. The theme of love was extended to heart motifs at the bottom of skirts and dresses, mixed with other feminine motifs like flares, bias cut pleats and drapes. Shirt dress trenches in check with red lining, cocoon shaped multi-coloured cocktail frocks and lingerie inspired satin wrap dresses with Masai earrings worn as hair brooches painted a picture of a woman who’s on a journey live and love. The range was so emotionally touching, it made me want to fall in love (and max out my credit card on all those stunning dresses!). To view this collection search for Stoned Cherrie in the designers section of FashionAfrica.com or Click HERE.

GAVIN RAJAH

Last night I had a dream about Gavin Rajah. Well, not about him, him, I dreamt of his clothing. In the dream, we were at a cocktail party, dressed in exotic look Kimonos and chiffon obi belts, having the time of our lives. Strangely enough, the dress sense didn’t seem at all out of place, given that we were in a penthouse in Jozi, South Africa. This sentiment, this feeling of unification and global village living is exactly what Rajah was going for in his Paris Summer/Spring 08 collection. Inspired by a Roy Liechtenstein painting on a wall in his friend’s house in London, Gavin researched comic literature and art and the origins of Manga as well as its impact in contemporary culture. In the 40s, Manga art was used by Japanese people to send secret codes to one another during the country’s occupation by the US. Decades later, Gavin took this secret language and art form and married it with contemporary fashion trends. With rich brown flowing kimono gowns with embellished gold OBI; empire line chiffon cocktail dresses with embellishment at the waist; green leopard print one shouldered kaftan dresses with embellishments - Rajah’s Paris collection echoed the influence of comic art while still being subtle, luxurious and stylish. Like many other global luxury brands, his inspiration is taken from the streets. Still, he doesn’t take this too literally. ‘You don’t always have to be obvious,’ he said later. ‘My work is African by virtue of the fact that I am African - why do I have to use shweshwe to defend that identity? Similalry, with Manga, I wanted to extend the theme subtly and include other influence to show the world as one tribe. To view the collection, visit the designers section on FashionAfrica.com or Click HERE.

On that climatic end, the first of our six fashion weeks ended and fashionistas partied until the morning at one of Jozi’s most exclusive clubs. In the four days to come, we all shall recover, plan our wardrobes, max our credit cards on new outfits for Sanlam Fashion Week which starts on 14^th March at Museum Africa, Newtown, Joburg.

- Lelethu Lumkwana

Craig Jacobs for Fundudzi

. . .The issue of designers not actively being involved in making garments for their collection is a huge point of contention in the industry. Can these people really be called designers if they can’t even sew? Enter Craig Jacobs - by day a fashion and lifestyle journalist for a leading Sunday newspaper in SA and by night, a fashion designer.  The king of network,  Craig has bulleted his way through the catwalks amidst controversy of his credibility as a designer for this very reason (being a journalist and not being able to sew). Last year, he was also one of the first designers to be chosen to show a collection at Paris Fashion Week along with Gavin Rajah (his good friend and sponsor organiser for the invitation), Thula Sindi and David Tlale, another decision which had fashion tongues wagging. Those who saw his show at last year’s Audi Joburg Winter/Autumn Fashion Week say that this year is a tremendous improvement and innovation. I agree. Craig not only conceptualised his show - there were three themes: working woman; free(dom) and couture (there goes that word again!) inspired by his grandmother, who took him to see his first Bond movie, he carried his stories consistently through each range. The working woman range played with rich browns, golds and warm fabrics contrasted with satin while the Fundudzi free range chose cerese as its signature hue, with the song Purple Rain serenading the models wearing various styled cerese dresses. My ultimate favourite was a hooded knee- length dress with an exaggerated hood that droped in to a drape with a brown lining - perfect for movnig from play to high-end networking. You can see his collection on the Designers section of FashionAfrica.com or Click THIS.

The Bond inspired Couture range used grey and black as its main colours, again playing on contrasting different textiles - lace on satin; black on black  - all big trends this winter. Noteworthy were his empire line satin and lace cocoon dress with embellishments while the black, figure hugging, rouged black gown with a silver strap leading all the way down ellicited a few wows from the crowd, too. So maybe, the question begs to be asked, if he can conceptualise an idea and direct it from paper to finish, is he not worthy of being called a designer…or would that make him a creative director?

David Tlale

. . .He recently won the Stars of Mzansi Award for being Mzansi’s favourite designer, entrenching him not only as (one of) the king of the catwalk but also a designer with mass appeal. Befittingly, his show was filled to the brim, the expectation of what he’s cooked up this season, ceiling-high. An hour and a half later than it should’ve started, the show eventually began, the catwalk dramatically turning black, illuminating the words David Tlale in gold on the mural. Out came the colonial safari  men’s suits, short and long in bright yellows, reds - a fusion of the past with futuristic neon green treggings. Kaftan scarves thrown over crisp white shirts and pants had an air of drama, while feather boa’d men with chiffon shirts and see-through lace pants as well as Persian inspired draped pants raised an eyebrow or ten. It is at this point that I realised that for all his fearlessness with colour and all things ostentatious (which is great), David’s designs are too camp (and dramatic) for the average man who wants to be stylish but not necessarily look like a drag queen. Maybe the range was a declaration of freedom after having stopped designing for men’swear label, Carducci.

The women’s range were peppered among the theatrical men’s designs - beige goddess gowns with braided belts cinched at the waist, black on black frocks with shimmery overlays and oversized colllars showed an inspired collection. David really understands what looks good on a woman and how fabrics should flow over her contours…I’m starting to think he should do more women’s wear - we love colour, volume, dramatic accessories (where applicable) and the only definition of being gay in our books, is happiness! You may see his collection on the designers section of FashionAfrica.com or Click HERE.

- Lelethu Lumkwana.