Register | Login
Haute Magazine - FashionAfrica.com

Welkom

Selam

Merhaba

MarHaban

Akwaaba

Karibu

Akwaba

Yaw

E ~ Le

Mwaiseni

Mwapoleni

Mwabonwa

Ingileni

Namwikhoyele

Namusangalile

Ali

Ale

Lali

Lale

Tikulandirani

Mwalandiridwa

Taone

Lówání

Titambirei

Titambire

Abala

Mawuya

Mwabonwa

Kamunjila

Fo sori?

Nsai

Ekaabo

Emukela

Ukwemukela

Isibingelelo

Sondzela

Amukena

Mulumeni

Goroganga ka pula

Amohela

Kamohelo

Tama

Ndjoni gango

Simad'd'a

Dé téá

Siyaalemukela

Wezon

Bisimallah

Gyaari

Kaliu

Kalibu

Tubasanyukidde

Oyei oi

Boyei bolamu

Omwe uya

Owe uya po

Ilo la

Atsua marang

Ilomunities

August 20, 2008

Labo Ethnik: A Vehicle for African Fashion’s Preeminence.

bill-ruterana.jpg

 

Juxtapose Paris and fashion. Now tell me what immediately creeps into the recesses of your mind? I’m sure Paris Fashion Week and names like Balenciaga, Christian Dior, and Hermes among others occupied most of your thoughts.  However, no matter the number of fashion houses that litter the arrondissements of Paris, none of them seem to speak to the plethora of Africans that call Paris home. Time immemorial, the cultural nuances of African dress fail to be expressed in a consistent vein in Paris fashion, even during the reign of Ozwald Boateng at Givenchy. 

To render this situation, a few wise patrons at AfrikEvents (link the words “AfrikEvents” to this url: http://www.afrikevents.net/) coined the moniker “Labo Ethnik” and subsequently established the first universal fashion showroom to commemorate “African designers who use African fabrics” and to ultimately fill that void that is absent in the Paris fashion scene. From its humble, but visionary beginnings, the “Labo Ethnik” show is now ticketed as an official program event in Paris Fashion Week. 

The creative forces of coordinator Yvette Tai have made the “Labo Ethnik World Fashion Show” a fertile ground for African designers to launch themselves into spotlight and potentially garner critical acclaim and buyers for their wares. 

Taking place around late February (this year’s event was on the 25th, 26th, and 27th), the three day “Labo Ethnik” event takes places at the pulse of Paris’ unveiling of its customary fall collections thus it gives the designers that window of opportunity to be amongst the thick of things in Parisian fashion. In its second year now, this year’s showroom showcased fifteen designers who draw inspirations from a myriad of African countries and the cultures, such as France, that they have come to know. Niger, Martinique, Rwanda, Mali, Cameroon, Morocco, and Togo are just a few of the African nations represented by the designers that were selected for “Labo Ethnik.” 

Now the amalgamation of cultures often comes with a sense of experimentation and a search for a mutual appreciation of those cultures. For many of the designers, experimenting was captured through spirited trysts into fabric technique while striking a consonant chord between African and Western silhouettes served to fulfill the cultural cohesion. None other than self-taught, Rwandan fashion designer, Bill Ruterana, personified these two themes with his innovative foray with umugwegwe or formally known as sisal hemp. Ruterana utilized sisal, a plant that grows in abundance in his native Rwanda and largely considered a weed, to orchestrate some spectacular, vibrant pieces that cemented his name at the “Labo Ethnik” show. By processing the plant, Ruterana was able to extract the sisal fibers that are akin to flax or raffia and color them with vegetable dyes. The end result was a breathtaking slew of colorful head-dresses and inconceivable wedding dress that drew rapturous responses. For Ruterana, flexing his creative license ensured that he met head-on with the foresight that “Labo Ethnik” has for African fashion and its recognition. 

So the next time your in Paris for fashion week, please do your eyes a favor and appreciate the splendor that continues to emerge from the multitude of African designers in Paris and the world over. 

More information on Labo Ethnik:

Some of the collection of designers at Labo Ethnik show on Daily Motion - 

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x4w4jk_video-book-2-labo-ethnik_creation

Labo Ethnik on Myspace - http://www.myspace.com/laboethnik

- Ikechukwu Onyewuenyi.

3 Responses to “Labo Ethnik: A Vehicle for African Fashion’s Preeminence.”

  1. Fried Plantains and Soup Says:

    It’s so fabulous to see African designers making such wonderful strides!!!! Awesome!!!

  2. FashionCritic101 Says:

    See, this is why people consider African fashion to be more of a costume parade. What is this? Defintely not high fashion to me. Masquerade-esque in the wrongest ways… Eew!

  3. Ikechukwu Says:

    FashionCritic101…your statements are rather broad and appear to lack an appreciation for creative license that is inherent in fashion and its ultimate survival.

    So how would you define high fashion? Are you talking about the somewhat commercial high fashion that Marc Jacobs produces or are you talking about the often ostentatious haute couture high fashion pieces that John Galliano has been known to produce over the years. Be it European fashion or African fashion, you have your players who define and make an attempt to push the silhouette as to what is ready-to-wear and what can be reserved for haute couture stage. So it is rather crass to make the statement that African fashion is considered a costume parade because of this creation because the same can be said for the creations that have been churned out by haute couture houses Europe over. Their pieces are not something you would wear on a daily basis and could be very well defined as costumes due to their avant-garde perspective on silhouette and fabric choice. But that left-field creativity is at the crux of African, European, or Asian haute couture. Many of the pieces that saunter down the Commes Des Garcon runway could very well be placed in the category of costume (see the Fall 2008). The question that should be asked is why is African fashion that stays true to its culture, such as exhibited by Ruterana here, labelled as costume? Rei Kawakubo does not soften up the quirky, playfulness that defines Japanese dress/fashion to suit an aesthetic of high fashion so why does Ruterana have to? Is this not high fashion because his fabric choice in this particular piece is not dear enough?

    By simply researching some of Ruterana’s work, you will come to find out that he largely dabbles in both haute couture and ready-to-wear pieces. Also kindly pay a visit to “Labo Ethnik” Look Book and see what else African fashion has to offer.

    Cheers,

    Chike-Ikechi

Leave a Comment