Ethopian feathers ruffled by Matthew Williamson
Matthew Williamson is a London bred fashion designer who schooled at the prestigious Central Saints Martins. Since his launch in 1996 the Matthew Williamson label has become synonymous with bright, kaleidoscopic hues and equally vibrant patterns and prints. His undying love for colours led to his spring/summer ‘08 collection to be “particularly inspired by the idea of modernizing and celebrating certain traditional African fabrics and costumes.”
He only just chose the wrong African Country (Ethopia), or did he?.
After much praise, came strong criticism from the Ethopian ministry of foreign affairs who actually investigated this issue. Abdurazak Omer of the Intellectual Property Office in Addis Ababa said, “We are very unhappy with the actions of Mr. Williamson. These are the dresses of our mothers and grandmothers. They symbolize our identity, faith and national pride. Nobody has the right to claim these designs as their own.” His action was taken due to an outrage of Ethopians worldwide that were disturbed about these 2 particular dresses in his collection, that were almost replica of Ethiopia’s traditional dresses, that are considered sacred.
(Pictured below, jamati.com)
This really does make us wonder if there should be a right to culture, and how do we react to people who are inspired by African (or any) culture, and can they ever take it too far? I mean it’s always apparent it’s “African inspired” and shows how beautiful the motherland is, right?
…while the end result of this complication has not been resolved/announced, another African Country, Nigeria (West Africa) is struggling to keep a safe community. Well, it seems like it’s just Senator Emem Ufot Ekaette for herself. She sponsored a Bill of Indecent dressing for females, that will make it a criminal offence to expose 2 inches of skin below their shoulder, and another 2 inches above your knee, if they are 14 or less of age. You may read the bill HERE.
We are almost sure it’s not happening (we said almost), knowing Nigerians who are very opinionated they have started forums, and gatherings that will nip this in it’s bud ASAP, besides this is the second time this kind of bill has been passed, if Titus Olupitan, an AD legislator could not succesfully pass it in 2004 during the shallow times, is it now in 2008 it will come to pass?
February 28th, 2008 at 4:57 am
In regards to the Bill of indecent dressing, I feel it is a waste of time and as you pointed out, will not see the light of day. On average, most Nigerian families are already relatively conservative when it comes to dress so I do not feel that many parents will be letting their 11 year old daughter out exposing a tad bit too much (or 2 inches should I say)! Even at that, style, fashion, and the like are expressions that should not be hindered by mandates. So if a soon-to-be adolescent is trying to find their sense of fashion, then let them explore, but to a tasteful degree.
The issue with Matthew Williamson is touchy and I’m currently playing the fence. The aesthetic infringement is evident, but what I would like to know is if Williamson knew the sacred importance of the attire? In addition, since the inspiration is just to striking of a resemblance with the traditional pieces, it would pain me if Williamson is simply trying to cash in on the culture instead of espousing the its beauty and encouraging others to intrigue themselves in its expression of fashion.
February 28th, 2008 at 11:18 am
hmmm.. having read this article, i must say its very interesting! moving on to the most important issue, Indecent dressing Bill summoned in Nigeria? All i can say is if the Bill was not taken seriously in 2004 then they should give up trying to enforce it in 2008. Nigerian has alot of other important issues to concern itself with, than Indecent Dressing Laws Codes!
As for Matthew Williamson, his collection are amazing, however being inspired by Africa (Ethiopia)for his latest collection, should highlight the importance of how he regards Ehitopia’s traditional attire, its not just about making money, its seeing something good and being inspired by it.
February 28th, 2008 at 11:53 am
designers (and artists, for that matter) are forever borrowing from everywhere, which isn’t such a bad thing. and williamson’s take is hardly a desecration. as much as we want to hold stuff culture in an airtight jar and call it ours and ours alone, the fact remains that we inspire others even as they inspire us…so nobody should claim a monopoly on something so fluid. also, it’s a rosary to you, it’s a fashion accessory to me - is that awful? can Jesus be my homeboy and your savior, please? can i take it to mean what i want and you take it to mean what YOU want? and can we all just get along?
February 28th, 2008 at 11:54 am
*as much as we want to stuff culture…
February 28th, 2008 at 2:24 pm
With all the PROBLEMS Nigeria has, they really believe the law of “indecent dressing” is what would make Nigeria a better place?? My friends and I were almost molested by policemen in Nigeria trying to enforce this soon-to-be law and i can imagine how much worse it will be when the bill actually passes. Those kind of women just set us back hundreds of years, if you are threatened by young ’suzies’ looking cute on the main road then step your game up woman!!
As for the Ethiopians, I guess I can understand why they are so enraged by this designers collection. I get territorial when i meet people who arent realy Nigerian but claim to be and call our culture theirs. Some things outsiders just wont understand so if those clothes are SACRED to them i say, Mr. man let them be!
February 28th, 2008 at 4:58 pm
he’s been told!
February 28th, 2008 at 5:50 pm
Love the read. Thanks.
Bill on rules for dressing? I’m sure designers could find ways around it… though I doubt it would pass. Then again Nigeria’s leadership is largely muslim, but I bet all those intellectual Yorubas would fight any infringement on already limited rights.
Too bad for Mr. Williamson. Though, dare I say it, this wouldn’t be much of an issue if he was Ethiopian. Perhaps if more African designers represented their culture on a mainstream intl’ level, instead of African-inspired we’d have classic Ethiopian, or classic African style, and Williamson would be a mere copy-cat of ________ (insert Ethiopia’s big designer here) not a pioneer.
I address the issue of Africa’s involvement in mainstream intl’ culture at length in my upcoming e and audiobook, “Green, Red, & Yellow: Requiem for the mother stitch.” Look out for linkys–coming soon!
February 28th, 2008 at 9:21 pm
Seriously, iReally don’t think it’s that serious. It’s called “inspiration”… those outfits might have inspired him to do something similar. There is NOTHING NEW on earth, it’s all about creativity, adding your own “jara.” That whole Nigeria law crap is CRAP!!!! iDon’t believe it and iDon’t think it’s ever going to work. That’s almost telling me to wear a turtle neck when time iVisit Nigeria. Instead of government to STOP embezzlement…HISSSSS
May 30th, 2008 at 9:43 am
to Gregwar’s Revenge;
If an Ethiopian designer takes a traditional cloth from Mexico and claims that he designed it or makes the exact same cloth and snobbishly say he was inspired by their Mexico when all he did was make a replica, then i guarantee you he would get in to trouble.
the problem here is he says he was inspired by African dresses and yet passes the exact same cloth as his own, now that is just plagiarism at its highest.
and i doubt the anger is hardly over money. as an advice for the people who buy it though, you can get the exact same cloth(authentic and made by had) for a cheaper price from the rightful(”patent wise”) owners.